There is a lot of science and chemistry behind hair color. Today, we're going to learn a little more about some familiar lingo with not-so-familiar science in order to understand how this popular service actually works. As the diagram shows, there are a series of chemical reactions that occur during the coloring process. However, there is more to it than meets the eye. Hair has a chemistry of its own and choosing the right product for your desired result is a highly technical endeavor called formulation.
Although the home hair color industry is booming, most people wind up in the salon with a corrective color situation eventually. This costs you time, big money and sometimes hair due to breakage from irreparable damage. Those boxes at the grocery store only provide some of the necessary information need to make an educated decision for optimal results. No one can adequately choose the proper color level from a picture. It is vitally important to know what level your natural haircolor is to begin with and then choose accordingly. Another mystery is the level of developer (peroxide) that is packaged with it, which determine if there will be adequate lift or deposit for optimal results. At the salon, professional stylists have all the tools and products available to formulate appropriately; most importantly the knowledge and experience to avoid unnecessary mistakes.
Deciding which color to choose is typically the only decision most people think about when desiring a color change, but there is far more to consider. It is imperative to take the current condition of your hair as well as your hair's history into account. Determining your hair's porosity and structural integrity is vital to choosing the right hair color product (temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent or permanent) as well as actual color. Too dark of a color on porous, dry, hair will have a staining effect on the hair; even if you choose a temporary or semi-permanent color. Often times, pre-treating the hair is necessary to equalize porosity so color can penetrate the cuticle evenly. Which one of these images do you think will lend better results?
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| Severely Damaged Hair; Breakage |
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| Healthy Hair; Closed Cuticle |
Coloring with Temporary, Semi or Demi permanent haircolor simply coats the hair cuticle, which is why it can only deposit color and then gently fades away. The lack of ammonia and peroxide in the developer ensure that the cuticle remains closed, therefore the cortex is never altered or lightened. This is why color can never lift color and why colors without ammonia will never last.
Highlighting, on-scalp bleaching, or color removal (also known as stripping), is an activity that should never be done alone. These chemical services require professional expertise due to the dangerous nature of these products. Each product contains harsh ingredients that can irritate skin, cause burns, break the hair, and even blind you if your not careful. Safe application requires precision, care, and experience with chemical formulation. Choosing the right product, mixing it with the appropriate developer, and utilizing the proper application, is paramount to achieving the desired color results. It takes all three components to successfully highlight or remove color. Depending on how many levels of lift you are desiring, heat may be need to activate the lightener or help open the cuticle/cortex far enough to release the unwanted pigmentation. Constant supervision of this process to ensure appropriate timing and prompt removal are a top priority for your health and safety as well as desired results. At the salon, stylists can stop this process anytime and have other products that can be added to buffer the chemicals used in order to preserve the integrity of your hair. Rinsing color and bleach in a salon shampoo bowl is the only safe way to remove product from your hair without getting it on other sensitive body parts, such as your eyes, nose or mouth. This is not something the average person can do alone.
So as you can see, there is a lot of science and chemistry behind haircolor. Many safety precautions exist to protect the user and patron as well as ensure predictable results. While this is an in-depth article, designed to educate and illuminate readers on the subject, it is by no means comprehensive. Color theory is extremely detailed and is as much experience as education. This is why hairstylists are licensed professionals.
If you have any color questions, feel free to list them in the comments section below. In most cases, seeing the problem is essential to diagnosing and solving color mishaps, so please include a picture wherever possible or schedule a complimentary color consultation with me directly if you live in the greater Phoenix, Arizona area. http://www.lisashairdesign.net/Appointments.html
I look forward to hearing from you!
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